Outings


31
Jul 09

Chilling out for a few days in Dali

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The sleeper train from Guilin to Kunming could have been a bit of a disaster… when we booked the tickets at the station in Guilin, we were informed that they were the last two hard sleeper tickets for that train. What they did not tell us – and what we did not notice ourselves – was that the two bunks were in completely separate carriages! That means that Siqi would be in carriage 6 and I would be in carriage 4 – and we wouldn’t be able to sit next to each other during the day for fear of leaving luggage unattended. Luckily, as soon as we were on the train, it became apparent that the guy sitting opposite me was travelling alone and after a bit of a chat I managed to convince him to swap places with Siqi – which he very kindly agreed to.

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After that, things went pretty swimmingly. We managed to buy long distance bus tickets to Dali on the train itself – so as soon as we arrived in Kunming we were whisked off to our high speed coach and 4 or 5 hours down the line we turned up at the long distance bus station in Dali. We have now been here for four days and are staying in a lovely hostel (The Jade Emu) which is pretty much brand new (opened in 2008) and is located in a nice quiet area just outside the Old Town. The hostel is run by an Australian man and his Chinese wife and stands apart from pretty much every hostel I have been to – the bunk beds are extra large, you can charge phones and cameras inside security lockers, there is free internet access and there is all sorts of entertainment available to keep you busy.

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To be honest, we haven’t been doing a great deal here, just general chilling out over a pot of Pu’er tea in the many hippy cafes on offer, doing some shopping around for cheap clothes and trinkets at the night markets, cycling around on a tandem, swimming in the lake and walking in the Cang Shan mountains. It’s nice to take the pressure off for a bit and to stay in one place for a couple of days – and the Old Town here has a great atmosphere and plenty of speciality food on offer.

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Unfortunately, all this relaxation comes to an end tomorrow – it’s time to head back to Kunming for the last few days of our trip. Whilst we plan to spend two or three days in this provincial capital of Yunnan, we also hope to head out to some of the nearby sights and smaller villages and get out of the bustling city. After that, it’s pretty much the end of our trip… but first we have to endure the 38 hour train ride back to Beijing! No time to go to Sichuan this time round – maybe next time I’m back in China.

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25
Jul 09

Life in the lush Dragon Backbone rice terraces of Guangxi

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We caught the coach from Guilin to Longsheng and after a couple of hours of windy roads we arrived at the bus station where we took the minibus to Jinkeng. Whilst the Dragon Backbone rice terraces are well known amongst tourists, the terraces and villages at Jinkeng are less developed and more picturesque with few foreign tourists making it that far. We stayed the night in a vegetarian guesthouse run by a family of Yao minority chinese where we enjoyed some lovely food and great views up the valley with terrace upon terrace of lush green rice plants as far as the eye can see.

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Yesterday, we got up early and after a hearty breakfast, we shouldered our rucksacks and set off on a wonderful (although pretty exhausting) 5 hour trek through endless stretches of green rice terraces from Jinkeng to Pingan, a bigger, more touristy Yao village where we stayed the night last night.

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The food here is great – with plenty of fresh vegetables and locally grown rice. We enjoyed a delicious meal of wild chicken steamed in a bamboo stem last night.

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Whilst initially planning on moving on further north into Guizhou province today, we woke up this morning to torrential rain and decided that it wasn’t worth getting all of our luggage drenched with nowhere to dry it out for a few days.

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Besides, we’re feeling tired and need to be back in Guilin on the 27th to catch our hard sleeper train to Kunming. So instead, we are going to stay in Pingan for another night as it is such a scenic place – then catch a bus back to Guilin tomorrow where we will stay for just one night.

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The rain has now stopped – so I figure it is about time to head outside for a stroll and some lunch shortly. Hopefully get some more photos!

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23
Jul 09

Leaving Xingping… on to Guilin and the rice terraces

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Me and Siqi are now on the bus to Guilin after a lovely stay in Xingping. We spent our last few days chilling out a bit – we hired a tandem in Yangshuo and did some cycling around the nearby countryside, did a bit of souvenir shopping and then spent most of yesterday chilling out on the banks of the Li river, swimming and cliff jumping (well Siqi didn’t take part in the latter…).

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We also ordered the barbecued Li River carp as we said we would – it was absolutely delicious. The chef grabbed it out of the tank, whacked it on the chopping board and had it scaled, gutted and cut up in a matter of only minutes. Once barbecued he then placed it in a spicy oily sauce and added dried peanuts and vegetables on top… all that for only 40 yuan!

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Today we are taking the bus to Guilin where we will try to get another bus out to the Dragon Backbone rice terraces for a day or two. Due to time limitations, we may not have time to venture into Guizhou but rather head straight on to Kunming after the rice terraces – maybe I can try again when I’m next in China.

Right, that’s it for now, just arriving in Guilin, more updates soon!

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20
Jul 09

Chilling out in Xingping

We picked up the sleeper bus from Guangzhou to Guilin – and to our surprise it was actually a fairly pleasant experience. This time there were no bedbugs, the bus had air conditioning and there were toilet stops every three hours. The only problem was… we were so deeply fast asleep that we didn’t wake up when the bus arrived in Guilin and so ended up in Yangshuo at about 6:00 am. Actually, Yangshuo was our ultimate destination anyway – but we hoped to take the boat trip from Guilin down the Li River to Yangshuo and thus enjoy a slightly more scenic route.

In the end, whilst poring over the “Rough Guide” outside the Yangshuo long distance bus station, we decided that Yangshuo had become a bit too commercial over the last few years (it now has a Mc Donalds and some big five star hotels) and so instead of staying in one of the many buzzing youth hostels and hotels in the town centre, we took a bus to a place called Xingping which is 27km away and found a room in a new YHA that has recently opened in this charming little village.

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Unlike Yangshuo, Xingping is still pretty much unknown amongst backpackers and does not really show up on the tourist map. Whilst a few of the big tour boats from Guilin stop here for half an hour or so each day to let the (mainly Chinese)passengers go for a stroll, generally most tourists don’t make it this far. There are only a couple of western cafes and restaurants – everything else is completely local-orientated.

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We spent most of yesterday chilling out here and wandering around the village – the hostel has a pool table, table football, a great choice of films and amazing italian pizza (for those who are not allergic to gluten). It was nice to be able to sit back and relax, have a few beers and watch a couple of films!

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Today, feeling much more refreshed, we took the bus down to Yangshuo where we caught another bus to Yangdi. There we managed to engage in some serious haggling with the locals and got ourself a bamboo raft downriver for just 120 yuan (for the two of us) BARGAIN! We couldn’t have chosen a better day or a better time. All of the big tour boats from Guilin had long-ago taken their clientele downriver to Yangshuo and were heading back upriver – with nobody aboard. Furthermore, we got aboard our boat at about 16:00 pm – so we witnessed a wonderful glowing sunset over the limestone mountains just as we were arriving on the riverbank back at Xingping two hours downstream from where we set off.

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This evening we enjoyed some delicious rice noodles and kebabs at one of the local joints. The guy who run the place came and sat down with us and we had a long chat in Chinese – he then offered to cook us fresh barbecued fish tomorrow night, an offer that could not be refused.

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That’s it for now – I’m off to watch a film in the common room with Siqi and maybe enjoy another beer or two. More updates when I next have a chance to get on the internet! I’ll let you know how the fish tasted…

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